Mailbag: Tips for Building a 300-Plus Horsepower Fox-Body 5.0L
Q: I have a 1993 5.0L Mustang LX that I have modified over the last year. I’d like to know what you think about the changes I have made, and if there is anything else you recommend. Please keep in mind that the car will remain naturally aspirated — no blowers or nitrous. It will basically be a
Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: What is a Digital Dial-Back Light and How Does it Work?
I just bought a new, digital timing light to replace my old original light. When I push the button, the timing moves but I’m not sure I know exactly what’s really going on here. There’s probably an easy answer but it escapes me! Thanks D.L. Jeff Smith: What you are using is what is commonly
Mailbag: Cylinder Head Bolts vs. Studs — and How to Determine the Right Torque Values
Q: I recently purchased Milodon main and head stud kits for a 390 in a Ford Fairlane GT. The torque specifications that came with the kits are general and don’t refer to any particular type of engine. The instructions only refer to stud diameter; for example, they say to torque 1/2-inch studs to 85 ft.-lbs., using
Mailbag: Why is My Rebuilt Engine Still Using Too Much Oil?
Q: I have a 1968 or 1969 Ford 390 engine. I had the block re-bored and was told to use moly piston rings. When I was finished with the rebuild, the engine began to use oil, so I tore it apart to see what was wrong with it. The cylinder walls were very wet (oily),
Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: Port Matching vs. Pocket Porting — Which is a Better Use of Time?
I’m still buying parts to assemble a 355-cubic-inch small block Chevy for my ’55 Chevy. My buddy was over this past weekend and told me that I should make sure to port-match the intake manifold to the heads. Is that something I should do? He says he read where that could be worth 10 horsepower
Mailbag: Transmission Swap Advice for a Ford 351 Cleveland
Q: I have a 1973 Mustang fastback that I have restored with the help of parts from Summit Racing. It has an FMX transmission, which I would like to swap for an overdrive automatic. Is this possible? Can you tell me which AOD four-speed will hook up to my 351 Cleveland engine? A: We hate to be
Mailbag: These Two Unlikely Suspects Could Be Stealing Your High-RPM Power
Q: I am currently running a 12:4 compression 351W in a Pinto. The engine has World Products Windsor heads, 926 cfm double pumper carburetor on a Victor Jr. intake, 254-degree duration (at .050-inch lift)/.571-inch lift solid cam, and MSD ignition. The transmission is a C-4 with a 4,500 rpm stall converter. I am running 7 psi of
Mailbag: Budget-Friendly Ways to Lower Engine Operating Temps
Q: I bought a 1988 Camaro IROC-Z with a 350 TPI (the second I have owned). My question is about engine running temperature. When the car is not moving faster than 30 miles-per-hour, the temperature climbs over 200 degrees, and the fans won’t turn on until the temperature reaches 240 degrees. Both of my IROCs did this.
Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: The Great 5.3L Truck Swap Debate Revisited!
Editor’s Note: The following letter is in response to an answer in a previous column concerning whether to go with a 5.3L LS engine or a larger 350ci small-block Chevy. You can read Jeff’s original answer here. Prices reflect April 2016 figures per Summit Racing and, given the context/purpose of the article, have not been updated.
Mailbag: Low Oil Pressure and How it Affects Your Engine Bearings
Q: I was wondering if you could answer a few questions for me: Could low oil pressure (15-20 psi) spin a main bearing or otherwise ruin an engine? How can you avoid low oil pressure? How long would it take for low oil pressure to spin a bearing? A: Here are the answers to your questions in




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