I have a question about the optimum distributor rotor tip and terminal gap. Modern replacement parts for our classics are all over the place, either in terms of length, cap eccentricity, or quality control in general. Rotors listed as ‘correct’ for the application differ markedly in length. So my question would be: All things being
You’ve got questions, we’ve got answers. We work with the Summit Racing tech department to help you tackle your auto-related conundrums. In this week’s Mailbag, we’re troubleshooting ignition problems on an uncooperative small block Chevy swapped into a Monte Carlo. Q: I own a 1984 Monte Carlo SS with a stock 350 out of a 1974 4×4 pickup
Q: I own a 1971 Dodge Demon with a 400. The 10.5:1 compression engine has a forged crank and “LY” rods, and has a balanced bottom end. The heads are 906 castings port matched to a Weiand Team G intake and 2.5-inch headers. The heads have also had port work done. The cam is a Mopar Performance
How do you know which ignition wire set will work best in your vehicle? From stock replacement offerings to wiring for Top Fuel ignition systems, there are many ignition wire sets to choose from, generally classified by wire diameter and ohm resistance. Common sizes range from 7-millimeter diameters for low-resistance applications to 8.5 mm for higher-voltage
Q: I have a 1976 Chevy Blazer with a 320 hp small block. It has a 600 cfm carburetor, MSD 6A ignition with an HEI adapter kit, and a heavy duty distributor cap and rotor. I keep melting a hole through the distributor cap, plus the center terminal (spring included) and the arc seal. I swapped
I hate to admit that I’ve been working on cars for more years that I care to admit and yet I still don’t understand all the different things about ignition advance. Every time I ask my friends who say they know all about that – I get a different answer. Can you make it simple
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