Mailbag: Return vs. Non-Return Style Fuel Pressure Regulators
Q: I’m building a fuel system for my 1969 Chevelle. I plan on running an electric fuel pump that puts out a maximum pressure of 14 psi. What type of fuel pressure regulator should I use? A: You can use a bypass (return) on a non-return style fuel pressure regulator. A bypass regulator sends unused fuel back
Mailbag: Building a Potent, Pump-Gas Pontiac on a Budget
Q: : I have a 1967 Pontiac GTO with a 400-cubic-inch engine that originally came from a 1968 Grand Prix. The 10.75:1 compression engine is rated at 340 horsepower. The car has an M-20 four-speed transmission and 3.55 rear-end gears, and curb weight is about 3,500 pounds. What I really want is a strong, daily-driven
Mailbag: Tips on Choosing a Starter for a Small Block Ford
Q: : I have a 1975 Mustang II built for drag racing. It has a 302 V8 and a C-4 transmission with an Ultra II bellhousing. I’m having problems with starters grinding when I try to start the engine. I’ve tried several different starters, but they all do the same thing. I’ve also tried changing
Monday Mailbag: Tracking Down Causes of Full-Throttle Power Loss
Q: I have a 455-cubic-inch Pontiac with a pair of cylinder heads from a 400. The compression ratio is estimated at 9.3:1. The engine was completely rebuilt by a professional engine shop with forged pistons and crank, good valve job, roller tip rockers, double valve springs, etc. Here are some of the components I have: Holley
Mailbag: Tips for Building a 300-Plus Horsepower Fox-Body 5.0L
Q: I have a 1993 5.0L Mustang LX that I have modified over the last year. I’d like to know what you think about the changes I have made, and if there is anything else you recommend. Please keep in mind that the car will remain naturally aspirated — no blowers or nitrous. It will basically be a
Mailbag: Cylinder Head Bolts vs. Studs — and How to Determine the Right Torque Values
Q: I recently purchased Milodon main and head stud kits for a 390 in a Ford Fairlane GT. The torque specifications that came with the kits are general and don’t refer to any particular type of engine. The instructions only refer to stud diameter; for example, they say to torque 1/2-inch studs to 85 ft.-lbs., using
Mailbag: Why is My Rebuilt Engine Still Using Too Much Oil?
Q: I have a 1968 or 1969 Ford 390 engine. I had the block re-bored and was told to use moly piston rings. When I was finished with the rebuild, the engine began to use oil, so I tore it apart to see what was wrong with it. The cylinder walls were very wet (oily),
Mailbag: Transmission Swap Advice for a Ford 351 Cleveland
Q: I have a 1973 Mustang fastback that I have restored with the help of parts from Summit Racing. It has an FMX transmission, which I would like to swap for an overdrive automatic. Is this possible? Can you tell me which AOD four-speed will hook up to my 351 Cleveland engine? A: We hate to be
Mailbag: These Two Unlikely Suspects Could Be Stealing Your High-RPM Power
Q: I am currently running a 12:4 compression 351W in a Pinto. The engine has World Products Windsor heads, 926 cfm double pumper carburetor on a Victor Jr. intake, 254-degree duration (at .050-inch lift)/.571-inch lift solid cam, and MSD ignition. The transmission is a C-4 with a 4,500 rpm stall converter. I am running 7 psi of
Mailbag: Budget-Friendly Ways to Lower Engine Operating Temps
Q: I bought a 1988 Camaro IROC-Z with a 350 TPI (the second I have owned). My question is about engine running temperature. When the car is not moving faster than 30 miles-per-hour, the temperature climbs over 200 degrees, and the fans won’t turn on until the temperature reaches 240 degrees. Both of my IROCs did this.




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