Mailbag: Choosing Between Even and Split-Duration Camshafts
Q: I’m building a 440 for a Ramcharger. The engine will have to pull about 9,000 pounds GCW so I want a lot of low to midrange power. The engine is bored .040 inches over, will have 9.3:1 to 9.5:1 compression ratio, and has mildly ported open chamber heads with 2.08 inch intake/1.74 inch exhaust
Monday Mailbag: Finding Possible Causes (and Cures) for Engine Bog
Q: I have a 1973 Chevy El Camino with a 350 engine, a TH-350 transmission, and a 10-bolt rear axle with 2.73 gears. All of the parts inside the engine, transmission, and axle are stock. The car is a daily driver. I have made some modifications that I hope will not only increase horsepower but
Mailbag: Tips for Choosing and Installing Header Fasteners
Q: I am installing a new set of headers, and I’m trying decide on which hardware to use. Would you typically recommend header bolts, or should I step up to a set of header studs? Are there advantages to using one type of fastener over the other? What other tips do you have for choosing header
Mailbag: Mating and Sealing Tips for Milled Cylinder Heads
Q: I have a Chevy 350 small block. The heads have been milled .020-inch; the block and Weiand Stealth intake were not cut. Will I need a thicker intake gasket to mate the Stealth to the heads properly? Will I need to mill the intake, and if so, by how much? The Stealth is like-new and
Mailbag: The Cure for Loose Roller Rocker Arm Nuts
Q: I’ve installed a set of steel roller-tip rocker arms on my Ford 302 engine. The cylinder heads are also equipped with aftermarket rocker arm studs and pushrod guideplates. Unfortunately, the rocker arm nuts keep coming loose. What can I do? A: Most aftermarket steel roller-tip rocker arms use OE-style self-locking nuts. If your rocker arm studs
Mailbag: Troubleshooting a Sticky Clutch Pedal
Q: My 1969 Roadrunner has a new diaphragm-style clutch. While shifting at high rpm, the clutch pedal sticks to the floor. When the engine speed decreases, the pedal comes back up. Can you help me out? A: Remove the clutch pedal’s over-center/assist spring. While it was originally installed to help with heavier Borg and Beck clutches, it can
Mailbag: Swapping a TH-350 Transmission for a TH-700-R4
Q: I have a 1941 Ford sedan with a small block Chevy. I would like to replace the TH-350 transmission with a TH-700-R4. How much difference is there in the physical size of the transmissions? Will I need to change the transmission mount? Would the driveshaft need modification? A: The TH-350 is 27¾ inches in total length and
Mailbag: Upgrading a Fuel System to Match Performance Modifications
Q: I just finished rebuilding the 5.0L engine for my 1989 Mustang. I made the following modifications: World Products Windsor Jr. cylinder heads with 58cc combustion chambers Ford Racing X-303 camshaft Trick Flow Street Burner intake manifold 70mm throttle body and EGR plate 73mm Mass Air meter BBK cold air induction BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Mailbag: Budget Tips for Lowering 60-Foot Times (and ETs, Too)!
Q: I need some help getting my 1969 Camaro in the 12s at the track. The car has a 350 small block (bored .010-inch over) with 10:1 compression, .488/.510-inch lift hydraulic cam, ported Chevy “turbo” iron heads, Holley 750 cfm double pumper carburetor on an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Mallory Unilite distributor and coil (38
Mailbag: Quick Guide to Electrical System Grounding
Q: Electrical is not my strong suit, but the time has come for me to complete the wiring on my latest project. Electrical systems can be extremely complex, but are there any basic tips you can share to get me going in the right direction? I am particularly concerned about establishing a good, solid ground to avoid any




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